Exterior door won't latch or close?

A door that won't latch, won't close or sticks is usually swollen or sagging, with loose hinge screws or a strike plate that no longer lines up with the latch. Most of these are cheap fixes you can do yourself.

Not sure which one it is? Snap your exterior door and we’ll narrow it down.

Does it also let in a draft?

A door that doesn't close tight is the most common cause of a draft. Drafty exterior door

Likely causes

Seasonal swelling or shrinking
Most commonModerate DIY
The door sticks or rubs in humid weather and closes fine in dry weather (or the reverse), with shiny rub marks or worn paint on the edge where it touches the frame.
Sagging hinges (loose screws)
CommonEasy DIY
The door drops at the latch side, rubs the top corner of the frame or the threshold, or the hinge screws spin loose. The fix is to replace a short screw in each hinge with a 3-inch screw that bites into the framing.
Strike plate out of line
CommonModerate DIY
The latch hits the wall of the frame, above or below the strike plate hole, or catches only if you lift or push the door. Scratch marks on the strike plate show where the latch lands.
Settling or shifted frame
Less commonCall a pro
The gap around the door is uneven or wedge-shaped, the frame is out of square, or the problem keeps coming back after the hinges and strike plate are fixed. A soft or rotted frame or sill points to water getting in.
Part: $350–850 (pro door frame repair)

Quick checks

A door that doesn't latch also doesn't lock, which is a security issue to fix promptly; until it's fixed, secure it another way when you leave or sleep. If the sill or frame is soft, spongy or rotted, water is getting in; call a pro rather than patching over it. Older painted doors may have lead paint, so don't sand or plane them dry.

Watch where the latch meets the strike plate as you close the door. Does it hit above, below or beside the hole?
Tighten every hinge screw. If one spins loose, replace the short screw in the top hinge with a 3-inch screw into the framing, which pulls the door back up and in.
Look for shiny or worn spots along the edge of the door to see where it rubs.
Check whether it only sticks in humid weather, which points to swelling rather than a shifted frame.
Check the deadbolt: if it won't line up with its hole when the door is shut, the door isn't locking even when it looks closed.
If air also gets in around the closed door, see drafty exterior door, and if the house is cold overall check the furnace.

Sharpen the read

Find out why your door won't latch, for free

No account, no phone number. Fixology’s AI reads your photo and tells you what’s likely wrong, how worried to be, and whether it’s a DIY fix.

Snap one of these:

the edge of the door and frame where it doesn't meet (or where the light comes through)
the latch and strike plate, close up
the hinges, and the gap along the top and sides of the door

Add a note or more photos next. Nobody calls you.

When to call a pro

The door still won't latch after the hinge screws and strike plate are fixed, the frame is out of square or shifting, the sill or frame is soft or rotted, or the door needs planing or rehanging. For lifespan and upkeep, see the exterior door guide.

Typical cost: Pro hinge, latch or lock hardware work runs about $80–480, jamb repair $180–300, door frame repair $350–850, and exterior entry door repair $350–1,050. A new front door runs $700–5,000+.

Sources: HomeAdvisor: How Much Does Door Repair Cost?

After a scan, Fixology can also help you find pros near you.