Drafty exterior door?

A cold draft around an exterior door is usually worn weatherstripping or a worn door sweep, both cheap to replace yourself. If the door doesn't close tight against the stop, or air comes through the frame, the fix takes more adjusting or a pro.

Not sure which one it is? Snap your exterior door and we’ll narrow it down.

Is the cold air coming from a window instead?

Windows leak at the sash and the caulk around the frame. Drafty window

Likely causes

Worn or flattened weatherstripping
Most commonEasy DIY
You feel air along the sides or top of the closed door, the foam or rubber seal is flattened, cracked, torn or missing, or you see daylight at the edge.
Part: $0.50–7 per foot, depending on type (foam or felt $0.50–2, V-strip $1–3, tubular rubber $3–7)
Worn or missing door sweep, or a threshold that's too low
CommonEasy DIY
Light or air under the closed door, a sweep that's frayed, hardened or hanging off, or a gap between the bottom of the door and the threshold that you can slide a coin or paper under.
Part: $5–15 for a door sweep
Door out of adjustment, not closing tight against the stop
CommonModerate DIY
The door closes but isn't pressed against the weatherstripping, the gap is bigger at one corner, or the latch only just catches. Loose hinge screws often let the door sag away from the stop.
Gaps around the frame (trim or insulation)
Less commonCall a pro
The draft comes from the edge of the frame rather than the door itself, the trim is cold to the touch, or the caulk and trim have pulled away from the wall.

Quick checks

A door that doesn't close and lock properly is a security issue, so fix a latch or alignment problem promptly. If the sill, threshold or frame is soft, spongy or rotted, water is getting in; call a pro rather than patching over it. Older painted doors and frames may have lead paint, so don't sand or scrape them.

The light test: at dusk, turn off the lights inside, shut the door and have someone shine a flashlight around the edges from outside, or look for daylight yourself. Any light is a gap.
The paper-strip test: shut the door on a strip of paper at several spots along the sides, top and bottom. If it slides out easily, the seal isn't tight there.
Check the door sweep: is it intact and touching the threshold all the way across, or worn, hardened or hanging?
Tighten the hinge screws and check the door sits evenly against the stop. See exterior door won't latch if it doesn't close tight.
Feel along the trim and frame for moving air, and look for cracked caulk where the frame meets the wall.
If the whole house is cold rather than one door, it may be losing heat faster than it makes it, so also check the furnace.

Sharpen the read

Find where your door is leaking, for free

No account, no phone number. Fixology’s AI reads your photo and tells you what’s likely wrong, how worried to be, and whether it’s a DIY fix.

Snap one of these:

the edge of the door and frame where it doesn't meet (or where the light comes through)
the bottom of the door and the threshold
the latch and strike plate, close up

Add a note or more photos next. Nobody calls you.

When to call a pro

The door needs rehanging or won't close tight even after the hinges are tightened, the frame or sill is soft, rotted or damaged, the draft comes from the gap around the frame, or sealing hasn't fixed it and you're weighing replacement. For lifespan and upkeep, see the exterior door guide.

Typical cost: Pro weatherstripping runs about $125–400 per door, hinge, latch or lock hardware $80–480, jamb repair $180–300, door frame repair $350–850, and exterior entry door repair $350–1,050. A new front door runs $700–5,000+.

Sources: HomeAdvisor: How Much Does Door Repair Cost?, HomeAdvisor: Weatherstripping replacement cost

After a scan, Fixology can also help you find pros near you.