Fridge not cooling?

If the freezer is still cold, it's an airflow problem inside the fridge (see below). If both sides are warming, the cause is usually at the back or bottom of the fridge, and the first fix is often free.

Not sure which one it is? Snap your fridge and we’ll narrow it down.

Is the freezer still cold?

That's a different problem, usually a fan or frost inside, not the cooling system. Fridge warm, freezer cold

Likely causes

  1. Dirty condenser coils or blocked airflow

    Most commonEasy DIY

    Both sides warming slowly, the fridge runs almost constantly, warm air or a lot of heat at the bottom; pushed tight against the wall or packed with dust and pet hair.

  2. Condenser fan not running

    CommonModerate DIY

    On models with coils underneath: the compressor hums but the fan at the bottom back is silent or stuck; the back of the fridge feels hot.

    Part: $35–120

  3. Start relay or overload

    CommonModerate DIY

    A click every few minutes as the compressor tries to start and gives up; both sides warming.

    Part: $20–80

  4. Temperature control or main board

    Less commonCall a pro

    Lights and fans work but cooling cycles erratically or not at all; settings seem ignored. Call a pro for a board.

    Part: $30–300

  5. Compressor or sealed-system problem

    Less commonCall a pro

    Compressor hot but silent after the relay is ruled out, or runs with no cooling at all; oily residue on the tubing.

Quick checks

Unplug the fridge before cleaning coils or removing the back panel; the condenser fan can start without warning. Put a thermometer inside: food above 40°F for more than a couple of hours may not be safe, so move perishables to a cooler.

  1. Is the freezer still cold? If yes, this is the other problem (link above).
  2. Check that the controls weren't turned down and the interior light works.
  3. Pull the fridge out and look at the coils (back or underneath, behind the kick plate). Vacuum or brush them if they're dusty, and leave 1–2 inches of clearance.
  4. Listen near the bottom back: a hum with no fan noise points to the condenser fan; repeated clicking points to the start relay.
Sharpen the read

Diagnose your fridge in seconds, for free

No account, no phone number. Fixology’s AI reads your photo and tells you what’s likely wrong, how worried to be, and whether it’s a DIY fix.

Snap one of these:

  • the whole fridge, or its display or control panel if it shows an error code
  • the model label, if you can reach it (inside the fridge, usually on a side wall)

Add a note or more photos next. Nobody calls you.

When to call a pro

Clicking that continues after a new relay, a hot compressor that won't run, oily residue on the tubing, or no cooling with every fan running. For lifespan and upkeep, see the refrigerator guide.

Typical cost: $200–450 including the service call for fans, relays, and controls. Compressor or sealed-system repairs often run $1,000 or more, and at that point replacing the fridge is worth pricing out. A diagnostic visit runs $60–120, often waived if you go ahead.

After a scan, Fixology can also help you find pros near you.

Related problems

  • Fridge warm but the freezer's still cold?

    Fridge

    The freezer stays cold while the fridge warms, which usually points to a blocked fan or a frozen-over coil.

  • Fridge ice maker not working?

    Fridge

    An ice maker that makes little or no ice: usually it's switched off, the water supply or filter is the problem, or the freezer is too warm.

  • Furnace won't heat?

    FurnaceFall

    The furnace runs but the house stays cold, which is usually a clogged filter, a thermostat setting, or an ignition fault.

  • Heat pump not heating?

    Heat pumpFall

    The heat pump runs but the house stays cold, which is usually thermostat settings, a clogged filter, or an iced-over outdoor unit.

Fixology helps you understand your home — it isn't a substitute for a licensed pro on serious gas, electrical, or structural work.