Water heater leaking?

Where the water comes from decides the fix. Fittings on top and the drain valve at the bottom can often be repaired. A leak from the relief valve needs a pro to check, and a leaking tank can't be repaired, only replaced.

Not sure which one it is? Snap your water heater and we’ll narrow it down.

Is it not leaking, but you have no hot water?

That's a heating problem, not a leak. No hot water

Likely causes

Loose or leaking fittings and supply lines on top
Most commonModerate DIY
Water on top of the tank or dripping down its side from the pipe connections. It often stops when the fitting is tightened or replaced.
Drain valve at the bottom
CommonModerate DIY
A drip or slow seep from the valve near the bottom of the tank. Check that it is fully closed. If it still drips, the valve can be replaced.
Temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve or its discharge pipe
CommonCall a pro
Water dripping from the valve on the side or top, or from the pipe that runs down from it. It can mean too much pressure or temperature in the tank. Never cap or plug it. Have a pro check it.
Part: $20–200
Corroded tank body
CommonCall a pro
Water seeping from the tank itself, rust-colored streaks, or a wet base with no fitting or valve leaking. A leaking tank can't be repaired. It has to be replaced.
Part: $875–1,800 (replacement)
Worn anode rod or a tank that needs repair
Less commonCall a pro
An old tank with rusty hot water, or a leak that appears at the anode rod port on top. A worn anode rod speeds up corrosion, and replacing it early can extend the tank's life.
Part: $50–150 (anode rod); $150–700 (tank repair)

Quick checks

Never cap, plug or remove the T&P relief valve or its discharge pipe. It protects the tank from too much pressure and temperature. If you smell gas, leave the house immediately and call the gas company or 911 from outside, and don't touch switches. For a leaking tank, shut the cold-water supply valve on top and switch off the gas (valve to Off) or the breaker. The water can be hot enough to scald. Switch the breaker off before opening any access panel on an electric heater.

Find where the water is coming from, wiping the tank dry first and watching which spot gets wet again. Photograph it close up.
Shut the cold-water supply valve on top of the heater, and switch off the gas (turn the valve to Off) or the breaker so the heater doesn't run without water.
Check that the drain valve at the bottom is fully closed, and look for a drip at the fittings on top.
Look at the T&P relief valve and the pipe running down from it. If water is coming from there, don't touch the valve and call a pro.
Put a pan or towels under any slow drip, and move anything stored near it off the floor.

Sharpen the read

Diagnose your water heater in seconds, for free

No account, no phone number. Fixology’s AI reads your photo and tells you what’s likely wrong, how worried to be, and whether it’s a DIY fix.

Snap one of these:

where the water is coming from, close up
the top of the tank with its pipes and valves
the model and rating label on the tank

Add a note or more photos next. Nobody calls you.

When to call a pro

The leak is from the T&P relief valve or its pipe, from the tank body, or you can't tell where it is coming from. A leaking tank can't be repaired, so it is a replacement. HomeAdvisor puts tank lifespan at about 10–15 years. For no hot water, see no hot water. For lifespan and upkeep, see the water heater guide.

Typical cost: HomeAdvisor puts water heater repair at $228–1,017 (about $616 on average). Tank repair runs $150–700. Replacement runs $875–1,800.

Sources: HomeAdvisor: How much does a water heater repair cost? (updated June 17, 2026)

After a scan, Fixology can also help you find pros near you.