Oven not heating?

The oven turns on but never gets hot, or runs cool. The causes split by fuel: in an electric oven it is usually the bake element or half of a tripped 240-volt breaker, and in a gas oven it is usually a weak igniter that glows but doesn't light the gas. This also covers wall ovens.

Not sure which one it is? Snap your oven and we’ll narrow it down.

Is it the stovetop that isn't heating, not the oven?

A dead burner or cooktop element has its own causes. Burner not working

Likely causes

  1. Burned-out bake element (electric)

    Most commonModerate DIY

    The oven floor element stays dark when the oven is on, or has a visible break, blister or burn spot. The fan, lights and display still work.

    Part: About $275 for a pro repair

  2. Weak igniter (gas)

    Most commonCall a pro

    You hear the click and the igniter glows, but the burner never lights the gas, or lights only after a long delay. Gas work is for a pro.

    Part: About $200 for a pro repair

  3. Wrong mode, or a stuck self-clean lock (both)

    CommonEasy DIY

    The oven is set to a timer, Sabbath or delay mode, or the door is locked after a self-clean cycle and the oven won't heat until it unlocks.

  4. Tripped half of the 240-volt breaker (electric)

    CommonEasy DIY

    The clock, lights and display work but the oven and the burners get no heat. An electric range uses a double breaker, and one half can trip while the other still powers the controls.

  5. Broken broil element (electric)

    CommonModerate DIY

    Broiling fails while baking works, or the top element is visibly broken or blistered. Some ovens need both elements to reach temperature.

  6. Closed gas supply valve (gas)

    CommonEasy DIY

    The igniter glows and clicks but there is never a flame, and the valve on the gas line behind the range is turned crosswise to the pipe. Other gas burners on the cooktop may also be dead.

  7. Failed temperature sensor (electric or gas)

    CommonModerate DIY

    The oven heats but runs too hot or too cool, shuts off early, or shows an error code. A thin probe sticks out from the back wall of the oven.

    Part: About $150 for a pro repair

  8. Worn door gasket (both)

    Less commonModerate DIY

    The oven takes a long time to heat or can't hold temperature. The seal around the door is frayed, flattened or torn, or you feel heat leaking at the edges.

    Part: About $175 for a pro repair

  9. Faulty gas valve (gas)

    Less commonCall a pro

    The igniter glows strongly and the supply is open, but the burner never lights or lights and shuts off. Gas valve work is for a pro.

    Part: About $150 for a pro repair

  10. Failed control board (electric or gas)

    Less commonCall a pro

    The display is dead, scrambled or shows an error code, buttons don't respond, or the oven shuts off on its own while the elements, igniter and supply test fine.

    Part: About $225 for a pro repair

Quick checks

If you smell gas, leave the house, then call the gas company or 911 from outside, and don't touch switches. Never use the oven or the burners to heat the home. If a gas oven clicks without lighting, turn it off rather than letting gas flow. Electric ranges are 240-volt: switch off the breaker before you touch an element or open a panel. Gas valve and gas line work is for a pro.

  1. Check that the oven is in Bake at a set temperature, not in a timer, delay or Sabbath mode, and that the door isn't still locked from a self-clean cycle.
  2. Electric: check the breaker panel. An electric range has a double breaker, so switch it fully off and back on.
  3. Electric: with the oven off and cool, look at the bake element on the oven floor for a break, blister or burn spot.
  4. Gas: confirm the gas valve on the supply line behind the range is open (handle in line with the pipe), and see whether the burners on the cooktop light.
  5. Gas: turn the oven on and watch the igniter. If it glows but no flame follows, turn the oven off and call a pro.
  6. Look at the door seal for tears or flat spots, and write down any error code on the display.
Sharpen the read

Diagnose your oven in seconds, for free

No account, no phone number. Fixology’s AI reads your photo and tells you what’s likely wrong, how worried to be, and whether it’s a DIY fix.

Snap one of these:

  • the bake element on the oven floor, close up
  • the control panel and any error code
  • the model label (inside the oven door frame or the storage drawer)

Add a note or more photos next. Nobody calls you.

When to call a pro

A gas oven's igniter glows without lighting, you smell gas, the oven shows an error code or a dead display, the elements look fine but there's still no heat, the breaker keeps tripping, or you're not comfortable working around 240-volt wiring. Replace rather than repair when a repair would cost more than half the price of a new range. For lifespan and upkeep, see the range guide. If a burner or cooktop element is the problem, see burner not working.

Typical cost: $130–310 for a typical oven repair including the service call (about $200 on average), with a full range of $100–600. Electric repairs run $100–250 and gas repairs $100–600. Technicians charge $50–200 an hour or a flat fee.

Sources: HomeAdvisor: How much does stove and oven repair cost? (updated June 17, 2026)

After a scan, Fixology can also help you find pros near you.

Related problems

  • Burner not working?

    Range or cooktop

    One burner won't light or heat, often a clogged or misaligned gas burner, a loose coil, or a failed element.

  • Furnace won't heat?

    FurnaceFall

    The furnace runs but the house stays cold, which is usually a clogged filter, a thermostat setting, or an ignition fault.

  • Heat pump not heating?

    Heat pumpFall

    The heat pump runs but the house stays cold, which is usually thermostat settings, a clogged filter, or an iced-over outdoor unit.

  • Washer won't drain?

    Washer

    Water is left in the drum after the cycle, which is usually a clogged pump filter or a kinked drain hose.

Fixology helps you understand your home — it isn't a substitute for a licensed pro on serious gas, electrical, or structural work.